If You Knew Sushi Like I Knew Sushi…

Bill Dugan knows seafood. With a nickname of "The Fishguy" and a specialty market called The Fishguy Market, he'd better. As a purveyor of fine Illinois sturgeon caviar, golden trout, big-eye tuna, parrotfish, littleneck clams, and dozens of other fruits of the sea (or lake or river), Dugan's Fishguy Market services many of Chicago's finest chefs and restaurants. His Elston Avenue storefront on the city's northwest side provides a variety and quality of service that's hard to find in a market dominated by super-sized groceries and big-box chains.

Dugan doesn't just impart his knowledge from behind the counter. On one evening per month, along with Chef Leo Bariso, The Fishguy Market now offers sushi classes.

For anyone intimidated by the word "class," don't be. This is not your father's classroom. The room is adorned with sailfish, marlins, spearfish, and myriad other examples of stuffed sea creatures. And while Dugan expresses his opinions on mariculture, (what is popularly referred to as "farm fishing", and he's for it) and the term "organic" (he doesn't like it) and Bariso demonstrates technique, the glasses of hot and cold sake that are continually being offered make this unlike any classroom experience you've likely experienced. And you will not be tested when the class is over!

The fifteen students begin the class with a course of east coast surf clam salad served along with a helping of sake. While we imbibe Dugan continues his lecture, extolling the virtues of using the freshest products available and his own experiences of visiting the providers of many of the products he sells at his market.

Next we savor a dish of sea scallops, "picked by hand, not dredged," according to Dugan, served at room temperature with ponzu. Absolutely delicious, though I realize I could do with a class in chopstick use.

As the Japanese wine continues to flow we're treated to a helping of hot miso soup. Bariso explains the differences between breakfast miso (which is white) and dinner miso (red). Our dinner miso is served with tofu, scallions, and a bonito tuna stock.

Bariso, a former chef of Hotel Nikko and Japan Airlines, next moves on to the course we're most looking forward to: the sushi. For those who think sushi is about raw fish, Bariso sets us straight: "the rice is all-important," he stresses. Using a quality rice is as important as using quality fish. He recommends Nishiki brand rice. Preparing the rice is also critical. To illustrate this point he repeats the process of cleaning and rinsing the rice three or four times to remove the starch. A rice-cooker is also recommended.

Bariso gets to work, rolling a variety of sushi, maki, and California rolls. Wrapped in seaweed in cylinders, cones, and blocks, the sushi is seasoned with vinegar, mayonnaise, wasabi, and soy sauce and is delicious. The instructor effortlessly produces samples of each for the entire class, then steps aside and lets his students try their hands at the process. "It's simple," he says, "just like rolling a joint!"

The class's efforts produce mixed results aesthetically, but we're mostly happy with the gastronomical product. For $75 we developed a new skill and stuffed ourselves with a wonderful sushi menu and a diverse assortment of sides. And after five or six glasses of sake, everyone walks away smiling!

In addition to turning the market into a classroom, Dugan also turns his space into an "occasional" restaurant on Thursday evenings. The concept, called "Wellfleet", is a casual, B.Y.O.B. dining affair featuring a fixed-price menu including a variety of fresh seafood and a dessert prepared by American Culinary Federation World Pastry Champion, Peter Yuen. The meal is limited to twelve guests per evening and costs $100. Past menus have included loligo squid stuffed with vegetable concasse and rosemary emulsion, cod poached in miso, turbot with celeriac puree and fresh parsley broth, and parmesan and roast garlic flan with organic greens.

The Fishguy also offers private events and classes to groups of up to 16. He's taught at parties and high-end real estate open houses, among other venues.

To sign up for a sushi class, reserve a table for Wellfleet, or just talk fish with an expert, visit The Fishguy Market at 4423 North Elston Avenue in Chicago, Illinois. Reservations can be made by calling 773-283-7400. More information is available on their website at www.fishguy.com.